By Melody Baetens.
I was fully prepared to mark the Rectory as just another neighborhood pizzeria, but
that would have been a mistake. A sister business to the Congregation (a restored
church that is now a coffee shop, bar and gathering space for the neighborhood),
the Rectory restaurant is located in what was a residence next to the church. It still
retains a lot of that homey feel, with a big wooden deck for outdoor seating and a
cozy dining room inside. Two of the year’s most memorable salads came from the
Rectory. Their Caesar is well-coated with dressing that is balanced with creaminess,
a touch of anchovies and more lemon than usual, a nice zing. The chopped wedge is
a poppy seed-lover’s dream with everything bagel seasoning, iceberg, huge sprigs of dill, crispy bacon and red, yellow and orange grape tomatoes. It comes with a thick
and creamy poppy seed and bleu cheese dressing. The pizza, though, is a work of
art. A bite into the Miss Mediterranean puts your nose right in the cumin and
pepper goodness of the zaatar seasoning as you crunch down on the crispy and
chewy crust topped with well-incorporated toppings. The Sunday Sugo pie is a
masterpiece with crushed, smoked meatballs, ricotta and melty mozzarella cheese,
red sauce and basil. The Rectory also has a short list of about six wines and five
beers, just enough to make choosing one super easy (go with the Lambrusco).
Order online, at the window or sit down for dine-in. Around $25 per person. Open
4-9 p.m. Tues.-Thurs., 4-10 p.m. Fri., 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sat. and 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Sun.
1920 Atkinson, Detroit. (313) 631-1920. therectorydetroit.com.